Travel Tales

The Amalfi Coast

My trip to the Amalfi Coast began with chaos. Less than 48 hours before I was due to fly, I found out I’d got the date wrong. I was supposed to fly on Thursday, not Friday. 

Panic ensued. There was barely enough time to fix the accommodation, wrap up some work, and pack in between. 

In Frankfurt, where I had a stopover, another chaos began ― this time through no fault of mine, but Lufthansa’s. A few minutes before boarding, they announced that they’d overbooked the flight, asking if there were passengers who would be willing to change their flights voluntarily to the next one (flying 5 hours later) for a €250 compensation. 

When the plane landed in Naples, the doors remained closed long after the plane stopped, and there were no signs that they would let us out. Passengers began wondering, and soon enough, the pilot announced, “Ladies and gentlemen, we’re waiting for the ground staff to arrive before we can open the doors. Currently, we don’t see anyone.” He sounded apologetic and bemused, and so was everyone. 

This whole series of events on my way to the Amalfi Coast felt like a fitting welcome to the adventure that was about to unfold: unpredictable, chaotic, and exciting.

And really, those 3 words seem to sum up the journey aptly.

The blazing sun. The crowded alleys and squares. The unrecognizable bus stops and incomprehensible time schedules. The battle with fellow tourists to get a space on the bus. The long wait for buses that might or might not come. The inexistence of queuing line. The cranky bus drivers who shout at clueless tourists. The terrifying bus rides on the narrow roads on the edge of cliffs where I thought, ‘If the bus skids, that’s it.’

The barely visible bus stop.

The Amalfi Coast was messy and chaotic. But it was also heartwarming and remarkable, incredibly so.

The stunning Path of the Gods with the towering cliff on one side, and the coastline on the other. The delicious, hearty food which gave me a newfound appreciation for Italian cuisine. The crazy and nauseating bus ride that gave the breathtaking view of the Amalfi Coast, and the charming little towns that were built vertically. Bright-colored walls decorated with either vine, ivy, or wisteria. Beautiful, vibrant ceramics that fit perfectly with the livelihood of the Amalfi Coast. The flickering lights of the neighboring towns as dusk fell.

Hiking on the Path of the Gods, one of my favorite parts of the trip.

The beautiful church of San Gennaro in Praiano, close to our BnB.

It took everything within me to restrain myself from buying these.

A day trip to Pompeii which left us in awe. A day wasn’t enough.

The view from Monte Solaro on Capri Island. The view from up here was the only saving grace of the uncomfortably crowded place.

The view of Faraglioni from Monte Solaro

An artist on Marina Grande, ink-sketching Positano. I still curse myself for not buying this gorgeous piece.

A small trattoria in Sorrento with a jolly owner who generously poured red wine and gave delicious cheese in small bites for the queuing patrons (and yes, there was always a line, usually around 20-45 minute waiting time).

Spaghetti alle vongole and grilled prawns from that trattoria.

Even with the bus issues (the root of all troubles there), I still long to go back to the Amalfi Coast someday. That’s how much I adore this place.

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